The Art and Science of Dressing Well: Lessons from Design, Dance, and History

Photo by Peter Chirkov on Unsplash

Why does proportion matter in fashion? It’s the difference between looking “put together” versus thrown together. Whether you’re dressing for work, a date, or casual weekends, understanding balance and harmony can elevate your style without chasing trends.

Over the years, I’ve drawn inspiration from art school, ballroom dancing, and even historical quirks like waistline shifts during World War II to refine my wardrobe. By combining these lessons with principles like the golden ratio, I’ve learned how to dress with intentionality — and confidence. Here’s how.

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The Golden Ratio: A Foundation for Style

The golden ratio (approximately 1.618) is a mathematical principle that creates balance and harmony. When applied to fashion, it guides how to proportion different parts of an outfit. For example:

• Dividing your look into 1/3 on top and 2/3 on the bottom is far more flattering than splitting it evenly.
• High-waisted pants or shorter jackets elongate the legs and create a balanced silhouette. A coat can be longer and should be if it is not at your natural waistline. (Take the picture from the top of this article for example. This model’s coat comes down the length of his body to cover 1.6 or thereabout of his body starting from his neck. Even the lapels of his coat make a second golden ratio within the coat itself. Do you see it?)
• Rolling your pant legs just above the ankle draws attention to your footwear and creates intentional proportions.

These small adjustments align with the golden ratio, making your outfit feel cohesive and effortless.

The History of Waistlines: Why It Matters

Before World War II, men’s pants were designed to sit at the natural waistline — around your navel and center of gravity. This placement balanced the body’s proportions and emphasized longer legs.

Notice the high (natural) waistline and how the boots balance the leg line by cropping the pants off at the boot. This same effect can be gained by rolling the pantleg once or twice. Photo by Tita on Unsplash

During WWII, textile rationing lowered waistlines to save fabric, and the trend stuck. Today, most pants sit at the hips, breaking the balance and shortening the leg line.

Family Guy touched on the difference in wastelines from Pre-World War II to now.

I first noticed the difference while wearing high-waisted ballroom dance pants. These pants, designed for movement and elegance, hit right at the natural waistline, creating a sleek, elongated silhouette. After that, I started wearing my pants higher, and the transformation was incredible.

For a modern take, try mid-rise trousers with a tucked-in shirt to subtly recreate the look of a higher waistline without going full vintage.

The trend of lower waistlines, combined with the increase in the average American man’s waist size, is why many men look like they are carrying water through the desert when they tuck in their shirts. While women’s weight has risen over the past few decades, leading to a popularity in high-waisted pants, men have not seen a similar trend in their clothing styles.

Golden Ratio in Faces: Beauty and Fashion

The golden ratio also plays a role in how we perceive facial beauty. Faces closer to this ratio — where features like the eyes, nose, and mouth align in balanced proportions — are often considered more attractive.

Fashion and grooming can enhance these natural proportions:

• Necklines and scarves frame the face, drawing attention to balanced features.
• Accessories like glasses or hats can subtly reinforce symmetry.

A beard can lower the focal point of your face, disrupting the balance. For me, this lesson came from ballroom dancing, where clean lines and balance were essential for an elegant appearance.

One of my previous female ballroom dance studio managers told me once,

“Beards make you look shorter and fatter.”

Being shorter does not mean you can't have a beard, but consider the beard length carefully lest you look like a shorter king than you already are.

C.R.A.P. — Design Principles for Fashion

In art school, I learned the acronym C.R.A.P. — Contrast, Repetition, Alignment, and Positioning. These principles apply to fashion just as they do to design:

• Contrast: Highlight key areas with contrasting colors or textures (e.g., a dark belt on light pants to define the waist).
• Repetition: Use repeated elements like matching patterns or colors for cohesion (e.g., coordinating a jacket and boots).
• Alignment: Ensure clean lines, like a properly tucked shirt or rolled sleeves, to maintain a polished look.
• Positioning: Small adjustments, like rolling pant legs or choosing the right belt placement, enhance overall balance.

Rolling Pant Legs: A Small Change with Big Impact

One of the easiest ways to improve an outfit is by rolling or cuffing your pant legs. A clean cuff — just above the ankle — works for most styles, highlighting your footwear and maintaining balance.

Quick Tip: For tapered jeans or chinos, a single clean cuff works best. For wider-leg styles, roll them slightly higher for structure.

Lessons from Ballroom Dancing

When I was a ballroom dancer, every detail — such as high-waisted pants, clean lines, and an elegant posture — was designed to create harmony. When my manager said, “Beards make you look shorter and fatter,” it was blunt but insightful. The advice was based on the importance of proportions.

Dance pants. Image by DALL-E

Small choices, like raising your waistline or keeping a clean neckline, have a significant impact. These lessons taught me that the secret to style lies in balance — working with your natural lines, not against them.

WARNING: Avoid wearing low-rise pants too high. This can not only make your crotch look strange, but also cause discomfort, and let's not even discuss the effect on your posterior.

Style for Everyone: Practical Examples

Proportion and balance work for any style or body type. Here’s how to apply these principles in different settings:

• Casual: Roll straight-leg jeans above the ankle and pair them with boots or loafers for a clean, proportional look.
• Business: Tuck a fitted dress shirt into mid-rise or high-waisted slacks to elongate the legs and maintain a polished appearance.
• Relaxed or Weekend Wear: Opt for chinos with a slightly higher waist and cuff the hem to show off clean shoes and boots.

These small adjustments elevate your wardrobe and help you look effortlessly put together.

Photo by Tingey Injury Law Firm on Unsplash

Balance Is the Secret to Style

Fashion, like any art form, thrives on harmony. By experimenting with small changes — rolling your pant legs, emphasizing your natural waistline, or framing your face with accessories — you can build a wardrobe that feels intentional, balanced, and personal.

For me, applying lessons from art, dance, and history transformed not only how I dress but also how I carry myself. These principles go beyond trends — they help you express your personality while feeling confident and put together.

Try them for yourself. Balance isn’t just a rule of design — it’s the secret to timeless style.